The bad part of going to the Monteverde Cloud Forest during the dry season, is that the clouds it is famous for are almost nonexistent…the good part is the views from Costa Rica’s highest mountains are spectacular. Looking southwest, we could regularly see the Gulf of Nicoya and beyond to the peninsula. Research and conversations with some locals confirms that it is more typically encased in clouds, with no visibility and frequent rain. But, not during our trip. I felt a little disappointed that we missed the climate it is famous for, but still the views were amazing.
To need pants, socks, shoes and a sweatshirt was intoxicating…a feeling distant yet familiar. The air was cool and easier to breathe deep into your lungs, a welcome respite from the oppressive heat of midday Tamarindo. None of the hotels in Monteverde have A/C, which was hard to comprehend when I was planning the trip. How could we not need A/C to sleep at place only a little more than three hours away? But, all the reviews I read confirmed it. At the second place we stayed, I actually added a fleece blanket to my side of the bed and burrowed deep into the covers to get warm. It made us all think about home, and miss it a little. Gus, in particular, remarked frequently about how much he was enjoying the cool air and wearing a sweatshirt. “Mom, if we could just move our school in Tamarindo here, I would love Costa Rica. I could stay here forever…it would be perfect.”
The elevation gain that provided these views and cooler air was hard earned. The faster route that Google suggested was the harder route by far, with several unpaved sections that were deeply rutted and potholed and far too narrow for another car to pass coming the opposite way. The climb felt almost vertical at times, with a sharp drop off on one side of the car or the other. Occasionally, my peripheral vision would hint at the incredible heights we were attaining, but I could not stop to look out the window to take it in…a bit due to fear, some due to the stomach bug I caught the day before, but mostly due to the focus safety required. When we neared Santa Elena, the main town in Monteverde, the color started coming back into my grip on the steering wheel, my breathing started to regulate and the pains in my stomach calmed. We had made it.
Simply put, the town was special. It had a quaint walkable “el centro,” populated by fleece and puffy coat adorned tourists, and had a series of charming restaurants and enough coffee shops to make any Portlander proud. Those of us schooled in urban planning especially dig this sorta vibrant, densely built core. The larger town was built in and around the trees and natural grades, spread across a series of very small hills and valleys rendering crazy vertical slopes to some of the main routes through town. These sorts of roads are not even close to meeting the slope and width requirements of American road construction standards. If they did, all the charm would certainly be lost.
Shortly after our arrival at our first hotel, we rushed off to make our scheduled Chocolate, Sugarcane, Coffee tour. I was a little unsure about booking this as it seemed it could be one of the those canned experiences. But, Gus and I love all three products and Sam and Matt love two of the three (albeit a different two), plus the reviews said it was great and I tend to trust reviews. So, I booked it and am so glad I did. The tour guide was amusing, educational and covered all three products and the process to make them in under two hours…including samples. Yum.
Check my Instagram @gusamom for a couple videos.
My new personal goal of pushing past my comfort level was seriously tested on the hanging bridge tour we took on day two. We crossed five hanging bridges, located at tree canopy level to ensure the best views. The longest bridge was over 700 feet and the highest was about 200 feet above the ground. For someone afraid of heights, like me, this was terrifying. I never stopped to enjoy the views or enjoyed the swaying (yes, swaying!) of the bridges the way others did. Instead, I white knuckled it across as fast as I could, ahead of our group, heart racing and full of panic, but I am proud to say I did it. I am told the view from the middle of the bridge was in fact amazing. I wouldn’t know, you’ll have to ask the boys. This pic of a bridge before the crossing might give you a hint at the terror that awaits.
The next day we took a tour at the Curi Cancha Reserva. We were met at the trail head by a Coati, who apparently was drawn to the smell of Gus’s Sun Chips. This is what a Coati looks like, but this pic was from Matt’s siting at one at our hotels.
Our guide, Alejandro, was amazing at finding birds in the trees we never would have seen. The big score was seeing the famous Quetzal, but we also saw seven species of dragonflies and a couple other colorful birds that I can’t remember the names of…see Matt’s post.
We learned about the difference between vines and roots and how ficus (in the fig family) vines will grow up a tree, take over, kill it leaving a hollow core where the tree once was.
On our last morning we squeezed in a quick hike in the Aguti Reserva next to our hotel, but only the boys saw an actual Aguti, and then another short hike down to a waterfall where the boys took forever to get the nerve to submerge themselves into the ice cold pool below it. Videos on Insta.
We made the smart call to go the longer route home down the only totally paved road. We were all amazed at how quickly we lost elevation and the air outside the car warmed. It was a long afternoon of driving, the miles ticking by as we passed roadside “sodas”. As we pulled into Tamarindo, I noted the familiar sounds and smells, and was pleased to feel like we were ‘home’.
I remember all u spoke of when I was there! Sounds like a great adventure??
I can’t wait to see and experience all of these cool sights and adventures!!!! We’ll go for the longer paved road though…;)
It’s so interesting how different the central part of the country is from the beaches. It’ll be fun to experience the Arenal area with you guys.